2022 Manju Sakemaru.

June 10, 2022

We have passed the first day of the month of June 6th.

The period when seeds of plants that bear ears, such as rice and wheat, are sown is the time of year.

The name comes from the fact that the needle-like protrusions found at the tip of rice stalks are called "nogi."

There is this name.

And from this time onwards the rain starts to increase.

As for me…

Participated in the annual Nagoya store anniversary event.

Unlike previous years, this time we were also delivering fragile items, so

We drove from Tateyama to the Tokyo store to load our luggage,

Then we went straight to Nagoya.

As usual, many customers came to our Nagoya store.

I am so grateful!

Thanks to you, the vintage radio we brought in was also

Most of them were sold.

The rest was returned to the Tokyo store,

Apparently they'll be selling it for the same price as they did at the Nagoya store.

Please check it out.

And on another note...

If you are going to Nagoya by car,

There was a place I definitely wanted to go.

I asked the Nagoya store staff to make an effort.

I took a quick break in the morning on Saturday, the first day of the anniversary event.

That's here,

My friend started a kidney belt specialty store.

Souvenir Leather Works!

The store is lined with original kidney belts.

What is the Kidney Belt?

It is mainly worn around the waist when riding a vintage American bike (rigid).

Belt for protecting internal organs and spine.

After that, bikes evolved and rear forks were added.

This kidney belt thing itself has also disappeared.

but,

There are still rigid riders who want this kidney belt,

The craftsmanship of the items themselves is wonderful,

American collectibles as a culture.

And what's more, it has been reprinted as the original!!

amazing!!!

The interior of the store is also incredibly well thought out.

This light was originally a car lamp from the 1900s.

seeing is believing.

Please go and see it first.

And this time...

A little bit about the relationship between sweaters and cut-and-sewn items:

I would like to try writing something as a planning and production manager.

Long ago, when there was no such thing as cut-and-sew, nor was there even a word for it...

The stretchy, warm clothing was a sweater.

A sweater is written as SWEATER.

As the name suggests, it means "sweat person."

That is, cold weather clothing.

Originally hand-knitted,

With the development of various knitting machines

It is now possible to produce a variety of patterns.

For example, this is an argyle jacquard sweater.

It is knitted using a machine called a Jacquard knitting machine.

It is spelled JACQUARD.

Often called "jacquard"

Some people read it as if it were the past tense of a wild feline, but that's incorrect.

And the characteristics of jacquard knitting are:

The threads of the next pattern sink underneath the color that appears on the front.

For example, in the case of the wine-colored sweater in this photo,

In addition to the wine color, there are also black, yellow, and white threads on the back.

In other words, it is warm because a large amount of yarn is used.

On the other hand, it is more expensive because it uses a larger amount of thread.

However, in the 1950s,

This kind of "argyle as a knitted pattern"

Printing them and mass-producing them cheaply became very popular.

Nowadays it's a rock and roll jacket,

At the time, rayon was used as a material that was supple and lustrous.

It has emerged as a cutting-edge sports jacket .

On the other hand, what is a cut and sew?

In the early twentieth century,

The fabric knitted on the knitting machine is cut,

By sewing it, it became possible to mass produce it.

However, originally it was just

"Mass-produced, inexpensive winter clothing made by cutting and sewing sweater fabric."

that's why,

There was an overwhelming majority of plain underwear.

In other words, cut and sew is written as CUT&SAWN,

It means cut and sew.

Well, the so-called "T-shirt as underwear" has been completed.

This mass-produced, inexpensive winter clothing,

The military took notice of this.

In World War I,

Because they had to distribute it in large quantities to their own soldiers,

Production was running at full capacity around the world.

For this reason, simple print indicating affiliation has been applied.

For example, something like this.

As you know, it's a USNAVY printed T-shirt .

This print is…

Along with these jacket and bottom prints,

It was held.

And then,

Even after the war ended, it was used as an item to prove affiliation.

Printed T-shirts became popular all over the country.

For example, something like this.

It's just a fictional organization...

TRAGEDY ACADEMY , does that mean a drama school?

It was a printed cut-and-sew shirt that proved his affiliation...

Another evolution took place in America after World War II.

Soldiers scattered around the world returned to their home country, America.

I started receiving a pension…

How to spend your leisure time, such as going to resorts or doing sports,

We are now in an era of rapid diversification.

Therefore, sweaters have evolved to protect against the cold...

Changed the yarn from wool to cotton,

Change from thick to thin count

It is designed as summer resort wear.

For example, something like this.

Octopus in summer sweater .

Close-up of the pattern.

Any threads that are not colored and visible on the front will go to the back.

This is a double jacquard knitting technique.

The amount of thread is not that much.

This type of development became more popular in preparation for summer items.

And then, just like Argyle,

Print jacquard patterns on cut-and-sewn clothing.

This manufacturing method began to be adopted.

Vintage printed summer sweater, Shark & Man.

Another vintage summer sweater, Puma.

With these vintage items as a backdrop, we are finally ready to create our original product.

Printed summer sweater "Cactus"!

If you look closely, you will see that

The surface is a pile fabric similar to mini fleece.

The print design is

Cactus & Tengallon are famous for their vintage Hawaiian shirts!

The sleeves and back are made of the same material.

The ribs are needle-punched.

This blog is,

America in the 1940s and early 1950s,

The company is tracing the transition from sweaters to cut-and-sew items using its own products...