happy new year.
Today is the first day of the 24 solar terms, Little Cold.
This is Sakemaru, the first blog update of the year.
This New Year in 2023,
It seems like things are tough in Hokuriku and Hokkaido...
After Little Cold comes Great Cold, and then the beginning of Spring.
It gets cold up here every year.
Just a little more, let's do our best.
Meanwhile,
It's really warm in my hometown, Tateyama City, Chiba Prefecture.
I went to visit the shrine for the first time this year. 
Very sunny.
And it feels warm.
And discovered it inside the shrine grounds. 
Can you see it? 
I discovered this year's zodiac sign, the rabbit.
The person who created this sculpture was Goto Yoshimitsu.
He was a local woodcarver active from the end of the Edo period to the Meiji era.
This Tateyama Hachiman Shrine was created when he was 52 years old.
He lived to be 88 years old...
At the celebration of his 88th birthday, he said, "I have yet to carve a piece that I am satisfied with.
He is said to have said, "I am about to carve a masterpiece."
A great man who left behind over 100 works, mainly in the southern tip of Chiba Prefecture.
As expected, their hearts are in a different place.
I must follow his example.
Well, in this blog…
I think this is a very satisfying work!
We would like to introduce you to a suit that we feel is perfect (following Yoshimitsu's example).
This is it!
This is the first piece I made this winter that I'm very happy with.
A set of three wool hopsacks! 
Brown color and… 
Available in two wine colours.
In my opinion…
It is positioned as "the ultimate in 1920s gangster style."
In the past, I have spoken about this age group.
I am influenced by a variety of movies.
The Godfather, Once Upon a Time in America, etc.
Meanwhile,
This drama was by far the one that had the biggest impact on me.
"Boardwalk Empire"!!! 
The main character, Nucky Thompson, is in the center.
Steve Buscemi stars in the lead role.
That alone makes it impossible not to enjoy it!
In this photo, Nacky is...
Peak lapel, single 3 button,
He wore a double-breasted vest and a pocket watch.
Standing on the right is Nucky's younger brother.
Eli Thompson.
Long collar shirt with collar clip,
A vibrantly woven seven-fold tie.
The black man on the left is a powerful gangster,
Chalky White.
All-plaid three-piece suit,
Cleric collar and bowtie,
Stetson Beaver Fedora Hat.
All three are incredibly cool in their own ways.
Another photo of the gangsters of that time. 
Sitting in the chair is big-time gangster Arnold Rothstein.
Windowpane check three-piece,
Double cuff shirt with chunky gangster style cuffs.
Behind him is Lucky Luciano.
Grey striped three piece,
A 1920s style in which the length of the jacket is not suited to everyone.
A blue clerical shirt with a tie of the same color as the suit.
Next to him was Jewish gangster Meyer Lansky.
Tattersall check three piece suit,
The pockets are actually outside pockets!
In other words, outdoor sports!
And one more. 
Al Capone is in the center.
The collared vest is definitely reminiscent of that time.
On either side are his minions,
On the left is a peak lapel single jacket.
The far right side is out of focus, but
The suit style with the bat is awesome.
Well,
It is a drama that brings together all the villains of the Prohibition era.
This really captured my heart.
So, assuming that there is such a foundation,
Let me explain these three pieces.
First, the jacket,
Wool hopsack pinchback jacket. 
As you can see from this photo,
Single 3 button peak lapel.
Typical 1920s style.
And what's revolutionary is that it has an outside pocket.
This actually connects to the back of the dress... 
The back of the dress has a belt in the middle,
On top of that there are pleats called "pinch back".
In addition, there is a double-sided dart in the center.
It's what we call a hunting sports jacket.
That's why the pocket on the front is an outside pocket.
If this were an in-pocket item, it would tend to look too dressy.
This hopsack fabric (a burlap sack used for barley) has a rough feel to it,
The outside pocket and pinch back match perfectly!
And next is the inner.
Wool hopsack shawl collar vest. 
Just like Al Capone wore earlier,
Collared vest.
Unlike today, in the 1920s,
Many people took off their jackets and worked in vests instead.
that's why,
In many cases, vests were given collars to make them functional as outerwear.
Dry Bones has made the jackets peak lapels so...
The vest has a shawl collar.
Although it is an outside pocket for sports,
The shawl collar is the dressiest collar.
This gap is quite stylish.
Also,
The front is rounded (also for outdoor use).
The bottom button is placed in a position where it cannot be fastened.
This is also a reproduction of a gentleman's style.
Finally the bottom.
Wool hopsack fishtailback trousers. 
The design has a V-shaped split at the back center,
It's called a fishtail.
In the 1920s in Europe, where suspenders were common,
A design you see quite often.
However, this design is
It wasn't very popular in America.
It was a trend in areas where European tailored culture was deeply rooted.
By the 1920s, America had already entered the era of mass production.
So this shape is rarely made anymore.
In addition, in conjunction with the jacket and vest,
I also tried out outer pockets on the trousers.
This is a shape commonly seen in pre-war models of European armies.
The gangsters in Boardwalk Empire
Basically everyone is of European descent.
Italian, Jewish, Irish...
Europe was devastated by World War I,
People who were forced to emigrate to America became gangsters in order to survive.
We tried to incorporate this story into a three-piece suit.
This American drama,
The executive producer is Martin Scorsese!
You can express the character's settings through their costumes.
Great director.
This time, we have all three of them.
I'm updating this blog while waiting for the trousers to arrive.
However,
Customers who had been waiting for the New Year holidays all came together at once...
It's already in short supply (sweat).
Please come early.
And as they say, "The devil will laugh at what we say next year"...
Finally, it was unveiled at the beginning of the year.
This sample has been completed. 
"Good Fellas" was also directed by Martin Scorsese.
Among these, the long point collar shirt was worn "only by the Italian Mafia."
For the past 25 years, we have been making them under the name Barrymore Collar Shirts...
It has been renewed and debuted as the "Italian Wise Guy Color Shirt" !
There are still a few more days until delivery...
As this is deadstock fabric, it is expected to sell out quickly.
Please get this as soon as possible.
see you!
