2023年立夏の酒丸。

Sakemaru marks the beginning of summer in 2023.


About a week has passed since the beginning of summer in 2023.
This is Sakemaru.

Did you all enjoy Golden Week?
The first long holiday since the end of the coronavirus pandemic
It seems like there were a lot of people all over Japan...
In Tateyama City, Chiba Prefecture, where I live,
There were a huge number of people.

And then, on May 4th, right in the middle of Golden Week,
They pulled the floats around the local town.
The original festival is in September, but...
The curtains on the floats were extensively repaired,
That's what we unveiled.

I was asked to act as emcee at the departure ceremony first thing in the morning.
After that, he was dragged around the town,
We went to the neighboring town of Shimomachi and joined the Shimomachi floats.
Then, they returned to our neighborhood with the downtown floats,
The ceremony was held at a local shrine.
After the ceremony, we left the shrine and headed to the area where another float was waiting.
Finally, in the evening, the three floats were enshrined facing each other on three sides.

On a clear evening, all the lanterns are lit, creating a fantastical scene.
Thanks to you, the event ended safely.
It was a wonderful Golden Week.
The next float parade will be in September.
We look forward to welcoming everyone.


Now that we have reached the start of summer, let's introduce some short sleeves.

First, I showed off my vintage items,
I will now explain the design intention behind the clothes I will be introducing this time.

I actually really like short sleeve sweatshirts.

My favorite is this one from the late 1960s.
It even has a KAWASAKI MACH print!
Of course, made in the USA.

And one more.


It's a crazy pattern from the 1960s.
The champion's old tag shines.

He also appears in movies.

In the famous movie "The Great Escape,"
Worn by lead actor Steve McQueen.
To be precise, it is not a short-sleeved sweatshirt,
But it's a cutoff...


However.
In fact, in the past few years,
I stopped wearing short sleeve sweatshirts altogether in the summer.

the reason is…
The summer was unusually hot,
This is because the weather is no longer suitable for wearing short-sleeved sweatshirts.
Short-sleeve sweatshirts are primarily an American culture...
The Americas are relatively dry,
Even in the hot summer, it is relatively cool if you go into the shade.
So I think there is a certain demand for these types of clothes.

Stalag Luft concentration camp in Germany, the setting for the movie The Great Escape...
In terms of latitude, it is 47 degrees north.
It is further north than Cape Soya in Japan.
That means it's a pretty cold place.
(Whether or not they really wore those clothes at that place is another story.)

As reference material,
Attached is a graph comparing the "discomfort index" of major cities around the world.

The discomfort index in Tokyo in August was:
This is by far the top (unbearably hot weather continues for almost a month).
About 30 years ago, when I started collecting vintage items,
It wasn't this strict.
In Japan today, the days when you can wear a short-sleeved sweatshirt in the summer are
It's really only available on a very limited number of days.

So, as a fan of short-sleeved sweatshirts, I got thinking.
The fabric used for this short-sleeved sweatshirt (30/10 fleece)
I wanted to try making it using a fabric that was easier to wear.

And the result was,
This Double Gusset Ringer T-shirt .

The fabric chosen is
No. 14/1 Jersey.
It's a pretty chunky T-shirt fabric,
It's cool because it's knitted with thick yarn.
Double gusset for a more vintage look.
I also played around with the colors and made it two-tone.

Ash grey with charcoal ribs...


Natural navy rib.


There are gussets on both the front and back.
What we want you to pay particular attention to is the diagonal ribbing!
It's a little hard to see in the photo (lol)
The stitching is done at a considerable angle.

I will explain using some vintage items from my personal collection.

This is a vintage sweatshirt from the 1950s.
It is clear that the collar ribbing is slanted.
The reason for this is...
The ribbed fabric is woven in a cylindrical shape.
The fabric is cut in a spiral pattern which creates slanted ridges .
Why do we do this? Well…
This is because you can use up every last bit of fabric without wasting a single piece.
The ribbed fabric cut into strings in this way
It is folded in half and the body fabric is sandwiched between them and sewn.
In order to sew the circular neckline,
The fabric is sewn with double stitches while being pulled.
This will make the ridges even more slanted.
This was the first time I uploaded the photo in the 1960s.
This is an obsolete sewing method (the collar ribbing is attached differently).

And to make it look more vintage,
I made it double gusseted.

Duxbak's name is also brilliant,
1940s double gusset sweatshirt.

Also, with the image of a short-sleeved sweatshirt,
Diagonal ribbing is also attached to the sleeves.


Thus, a short-sleeved sweatshirt lover came up with this idea.
The vintage-style double gusset ringer t-shirt is complete.
At last, during the hot summer months,
You can wear a cool, rugged T-shirt that is not see-through !
fun!!!


With the start of summer, the flowers in the garden are becoming more vibrant.

The clock vine I got for the first time has also bloomed.
There are still many buds,
It's going to be fun for a while!

see you!

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